To The Ice - At Last!

Departure time was finally near. The minutes ticked by dreadfully slowly! At last, the shuttle came to get us at 0830 . Only Julia and I were scheduled for the first flight, so the rest of the ARISE team came out to wish us farewell. They would be right behind us, leaving at 1000 hours with a scheduled flight at 1300 hours.

We arrived at the CDC and were told to quickly change into our ECW and move on through security. Julia and I got our 2 checked bags, plus our boomerang bag (also a checked bag) plus our carryon bag (which in the end they told us we couldn’t carry on because there would be no storage room) and proceeded through the corridors to the Antarctica Passenger Terminal.


We slogged with all of our gear through security, and then went into a holding room where we had a briefing about the flight and about our arrival in Antarctica.
Then we proceeded again through to the departure gate, and sat for about an hour while they readied the plane. I saw them taking fuel out of the tanks in the wings to check it. And then a palette arrived with all of our bags loaded on it. This was loaded into the back side of the Herc.

A Herc, short for Hercules LC-130, is a cargo plane with a turbo-prop engine, meaning that it has both propellers and jet engines. It is intended primarily for cargo, and the interior of the plane has straps and platforms everywhere to maximize room for cargo. This particular plane that we are flying in is being flown by the New Zealand Air Force. I watch them closely as they ready the plane for loading.

During this time I also had the chance to meet some of the other team members. I spoke with Dr. Marv Speece and Dr. Ross Powell, both of the scientists with the Mackay Sea Valley Seismic Survey, of which Julia and I will be members.
We spoke of equipment needs, necessary training required before departing into the field, ice conditions, and so forth. It was starting to become real!

Eventually we were told that it was time to board. A Loadmaster briefed us about boarding and the use of lifejackets, etc. He then asked if there were any questions.

A brave soul inquired, “what is the weather like in McMurdo?”

“Minus 33,” he replied. “And clear.”

“Celcius or Farenheit?”

“Farenheit,” he answered.

Brrrrrrr.

We then were led onboard. I was the first one seated in the front “row” and was right next to a window. It was great seat - I had leg room that nobody else had (even though many need it much more than I do!!) I could peek out the window anytime, and was able to snap lots of pictures. The “seats” were actually strips of nylon webbing strung across a metal frame. It doesn’t sound like the peak of luxury – but it really wasn’t too bad.

After a half hour of flying, we saw our last glimpse of land and headed out over the sea. For the next four or so hours, we flew over the sea and clouds. I was thrilled to be sitting on the right side of the plane (as you face the cockpit) – because I knew that heading south, I have the chance to see North Victorial Land, if it was not covered in clouds. What a thrill that would be!!!! Like an old friend… A scene now familiar to so many people because of my pre-ice talks!

We were given box snacks as we got on the plane. And earplugs to wear, since it is extremely noisy inside the herc.

5 hours into the flight there was a clearing in the clouds. Through the window I could sea ice cracking up, and large pressure ridges buckling under the forces of the ice. What an amazing sight!

A bit further on, the immense frozen landscape of Victoria Land came into view below me. An endless landscape of ice-covered mountains, glaciers, a frozen expanse extending as far as the eye could see. Like that same moment 22 years ago, when I first had this glimpse, I felt such awe at the magnitude of this land. Humbled by its remoteness and desolation, enchanted by its beauty, and simultaneously terrified and bursting with excitement to be, once again, living here for two months. I feel lucky beyond measure.

The ice and mountains and sea ice continued for miles and miles as we flew the final two hours of our flight to McMurdo Station. As we descended, the changing texture of the ice became apparent.

In place, I can see large icebergs, which had floated away in a previous year, now embedded in frozen in the sea ice which skirts the continent. It is early October and the sea ice, more than 5 million square miles of it, is at its peak. It doubles the area of Antarctica when it is at its maximum!

Eventually we descended and came into view of the ice runway at McMurdo.
The Herc made a low approach, and eventually touched down on the frozen sea ice. That is pretty spectacular – to think that a large aircraft is landing on ice just a few meters thick. I later learn that as soon as an aircraft touches down on the sea ice, a spotting scope is focused on the plane to look for any evidence of the ice dipping or cracking under the weight of the plane. If any is noted, the plane is immediately moved.

It took a long time to stop since we are landing on ice. Hercs often land on skis which they need to land on the mushier ice and snow of the Ross Ice Shelf. But here, a wheeled landing works just fine, since we are on the hard sea ice.

I stepped outside and onto the ice. I felt like an astronaut stepping foot on the moon, and couldn’t seem to get the smile off my face. I had landed! I was in Antarctica!

Getting Outfitted and Ready for Departure

Fifty people, dragging heavy suitcases, dufflebags and backpacks into the Clothing Distribution Center (CDC). The time for departure is nearing. It is time to receive the Extreme Cold Weather (ECW) clothing which will be our main attire down on the ice. Will it fit? Will it be warm enough? Will I be able to pick up the suitcase? Can I somehow consolidate the 30 plus pounds of ECW with my already voluminous piles of clothes, gear, electronics, and toiletries, to weigh in at under 75 pounds – the absolute weight allowance?

Marlene, a slight woman with a strong kiwi accent, briefs us on the process.
Which bags get checked. Which bags may be carry-ons. What items must go in our Boomerang bags… BOOMERANG BAGS? What’s that?

Flights from Christchurch to Antarctica often do not make it all the way to the continent on their first try. Sometimes they make it half way and need to turn back because bad weather has moved into McMurdo and they are unable to land, so they turn around. Sometimes there is aircraft trouble, so they turn around. Sometimes they get to 10 feet off the landing strip in McMurdo, and the conditions are unsuitable, so they turn back. Any of these scenarios will send the aircraft back to New Zealand. They are boomeranged.

Antarctic bound travelers, once they check their bags, are unable to get back at them until they are on the ice. So, we are now asked to pack boomerang bags – with clothing, a toothbrush, and whatever other necessities we may need for town life if our fight is boomeranged. The record number of times anyone has been boomeranged is 7! Can you imagine that?

When Marlene is done briefing us, we watch a video about the clothing distribution and flight protocols. We then go and deliver our computers to the Technology Screening Division to make sure that we are virus-free when we head to the ice. We leave it in the hands of the IT man, hoping it is there when we return.

We then proceed to a changing room, separated for women and men.
There are already 2 duffle bags packed for us, and a clothing list with our name on it is waiting for us. They are unbelievably organized! We begin the long process of trying on every item and checking zippers, Velcro, sizes, comfort… Whatever doesn’t fit is brought back to a window, sort of like the type of window at a concession stand where you order hot dogs and ice cream sandwiches when you are out at the beach for the day. But this window opens up to a vast warehouse of ECW clothing in all shapes, sizes and conditions. I want the best! I will be on the ice, in a tent, with sea water splashing on me, for 5 to 6 weeks! Now is the time to use all of that assertiveness training my mother taught me!

I try on the long underwear, the parka, the boots, the gloves, the socks, the goggles… The list goes on and on. I make a suitable pest of myself at the hotdog stand exchange window, but they are too kind to show their irritation with me. On my final item, the dear woman finally gave me 5 hats and said, in her lovely kiwi accent “look, there – just take the lot of these, and take your time with it. Find the one that suits you best, and bring me back the rest. Right? Cheers.”

Cheers. I did what I was told and, with the help of the kind ladies at the hotdog counter, I was fully equipped a mere 3 hours later. I packed everything up, separated the extra clothing and gear I would not be needing on the ice, and weighed in at a mere 69 pounds! Heck – I could go out and buy some chocolate to take with me – six pounds worth!!!

I took the shuttle back to my hotel, comparing notes with the others going through the same process. I continued to add to the list of people I was meeting who were headed down to the ice. It is absolutely amazing how many people go, and what their different functions are!

Plummers, cooks, dining room workers, engineers, architects, scientists studying the aging process of Weddell Seals, atmospheric chemists studying the ozone hole, people studying natural antifreeze in Antarctic Cod, Penguin researchers, geologists, geophysicists, geochemists, meteorologists, satellite researchers, helicopter mechanics, pilots, bar tenders, recreation coordinators, survival school teachers, mountaineer guides… An incredible array of people coming down to the ice! And everyone has stories to share with the rookies in the crowd!

It is time for my last walk in the garden, to take in the sights, smells, and sounds of spring before my trip south. It is a glorious day. Magnolias, camellias, daffodils are in full bloom. Baby ducks are swimming wildly to keep up with their elders. Birds are singing everywhere, rejoicing the spring. I take a deep breath, trying to store all of this deep inside of me to sustain me for the next two months.


Then I head off to dinner, enjoy a last kiwi meal with my full team. The manifest for tomorrow’s departure has been posted. One plane, the C-17 – a big, comfortable, fast plane – is “broken.” Two of us, Julia and I, will be flying out on a different aircraft at 9 am. This will be a Hercules – LC-130, also known as a “Herc.” A Herc is a slower plane, a turbo-prop (has propellers and jets), and has no “seats.” Rather, it has nylon webbing to sit on. Many are equipped with skis for landing on the ice shelf, and those skis do not retract – so it is a much longer flight than the other aircraft.

People groan when they hear that some of us are going on the Herc, and others get to ride in the yet-to-be-fixed C-17. As for me, I just want to get there already! And I would rather NOT be the first one out on a newly repaired plane!!

I must be ready for the shuttle at 5:25 am. The very dear hotel keeper gives me an alarm clock and explains this to me very carefully:

“I have called the shuttle for you, and it will come at 5:30, but be ready at 5:25.”

“I will be delivering a breakfast in a sack for you to eat, since the dining room will not be open yet. If you are not there when I deliver it, I will leave it in your room.”

“Here is an alarmclock and I am setting it for you for 5:00 am.”

“If there is a delay, they will call me and I will come and knock on your door. If you don’t answer, I will unlock your door and ask you to sit up and turn the light on, so I know you are awake and hearing me. And then I will give you the update, and tell you go to back to sleep.”

“When you leave, please leave your key in the door. If the plane doesn’t go, or if you are boomeranged, come on back and go back to sleep. We will not give your room to anyone else until we know that you have made it to the ice.”

“Try not to wake anyone else when you get up in the morning.”

It is AMAZING! The hotel keepers inform us of everything, they post the manifests for us and make us sign it, so that they know who to track down. They do everything with warmth and a smile and a “no worries, mate” attitude. AND… the rooms are nicely appointed and breakfasts are WONDERFUL!

With this very nice safety net around me, I went calmly to bed with my alarm clock ticking beside me.

At 5:00 am, I got up, showered, was just getting on my backpack – and the nice hotel keeper came walking up in his bathrobe saying, “Go back to bed. There is a 3 hour delay. The shuttle will be here for you at 8:30.”

He checked off my name, confirming that he had conveyed the message to me, and said,”I’ll see you at breakfast.”

Unbelievable.

Of course, I couldn’t go back to sleep. I was far too excited for sleep.